Not all diamonds are uber-sparkly like round brilliants. If you prefer a little less sparkle, a little more finesse and a whole lot more character, then the unique elegance of step cut diamonds may be the right choice for you.
Read on to learn all about the clean lines, sophisticated symmetry and quiet sparkle of step cut diamonds, including their history, allure, various types and more.
What is a step cut diamond?
There are two ways to cut a diamond: a step cut and a brilliant cut. While brilliant cuts have triangular or kite-shaped facets that radiate from the center, step cut diamonds have flat steps, or rows, of four-sided facets parallel to the girdle. This unique arrangement creates a sleek, geometric look with straight lines that emphasize clarity and transparency. The most popular step cuts are the emerald cut and Asscher cut, both of which feature long, broad facets that highlight the diamond's structure.
Unlike brilliant cuts, which focus on maximizing sparkle, step cuts tend to produce a more subtle, elegant shine, showcasing the stone’s clarity and giving it a distinct “hall of mirrors” effect when viewed from above. Step cut diamonds are often prized for their sophisticated appearance and ability to reflect light in a way that creates sharp, angular flashes instead of a continuous sparkle.
A brief history of step cut diamonds
Step cut diamonds were first developed in the 16th century and quickly gained popularity for their clean look. While early versions weren’t as symmetrical as those seen today, they were quickly embraced by elites and royals for their understated elegance. In the 1800s, step cuts gained even more popularity with the evolution of cutting techniques. While step cut diamonds, particularly emerald cuts, offer less sparkle than brilliant cuts (which surged in popularity after the round brilliant cut’s introduction in 1919), they remain highly adored and continue to be used in engagement rings and fine jewelry today.
5 types of step cut diamonds
If you’re into the clean, timeless allure of step cut diamonds, you’ll love these cuts. Some might even say they are a step above the rest. ;)
Emerald cut
The emerald cut diamond was developed in the 1920s. This rectangular-shaped diamond features step-like facets along its edges, offering its wearer a refined, geometric look. Its large surface area makes it appear more substantial than its actual carat weight, and it can come in a square shape, called a modified emerald cut.
Interesting emerald cut story alert! Because the Church of England did not allow remarriage after divorce in the 1930s, King Edward VIII (Queen Elizabeth II’s grandfather) decided to abdicate the throne so that he could propose to his beloved, Wallis Simpson, with a stunning 19.77 carat Cartier emerald cut diamond.
Asscher cut
The Asscher cut diamond is like a square shaped emerald cut with deeper-trimmed corners. Introduced in the early 1900s and popularized in the 1920s, the Asscher cut is known for its glamorous, classic look. Due to its specific combination of square shape and step cut facets, Asscher diamonds will have a visible "X" when viewed from above, as the facets are arranged to reflect light in this alphabet letter's pattern.
Baguette cut
Known for their long, slender silhouettes and distinct shapes, baguette cut diamonds became a staple in Art Deco jewelry. Cartier popularized the modern baguette cut in 1912, and it has since been an accent stone, often framing center diamonds. The length-to-width ratio of baguette cut diamonds is typically 2:1 to 3:1. While baguette diamonds are generally more affordable than other cuts, custom-made baguettes can be quite costly. While they may resemble emerald cuts with their step-cut facets, a baguette's corners are straight, unlike the slightly cut corners of an emerald cut.
Trapezoidal cut
This cut is a bit more unique but highlights the fact that step cut diamonds aren’t restricted to emerald, Asscher and baguette cuts. A trapezoidal diamond features two parallel sides, with the other two sides slanting toward each other. These diamonds are often used as accent stones and are great for framing large center stones.
Carre cut
Carre cuts are square step cuts that feature sharp, clean lines. Carre cut diamonds are like Asscher cut diamonds with fewer facets and without clipped corners. This cut still has that signature "hall of mirrors" step cut look; however, its fewer facets give it a more simple, reflective appearance. Known for their geometric precision and bold, modern appeal, the stepped facets and square shape of Carre cut diamonds result in a pyramid-shaped appearance when viewed from above. You should note that the high clarity of carre-cut diamonds can make inclusions more noticeable than in other diamond shapes.
5 tips for choosing a step cut diamond engagement ring
Before making your final decision on a step cut diamond engagement ring, there are a few factors to consider:
1. Prioritize clarity
Because step cut diamonds can show inclusions or imperfections more readily than a brilliant cut diamond, you may want to opt for a high-quality diamond (one with few inclusions) if you’re looking for that clear-as-can-be look.
2. Color up for best results
Similarly, square cut diamonds also showcase color more prominently. Therefore, you should consider a higher color grade (D-F) to avoid any noticeable yellow tints, especially in white metal settings.
3. Choose precision and symmetry
Well-proportioned step cuts exhibit a captivating "hall of mirrors" effect but ensure the facets are aligned and symmetrical. If you have a poorly cut step-cut diamond, the light may not reflect properly, resulting in a lack of that signature "mirrored" light play.
4. Determine your proper proportions
Determine your desired diamond shape (elongated rectangle or square), as the length-to-width ratio really does dictate the diamond's overall appearance. While some may prefer the clean, symmetrical look of a square, others may be drawn to the lengthening effect of a rectangle, especially those with shorter fingers.
5. Select a setting that shines
Choose a setting that complements the elegance of a step cut. Solitaire settings highlight the diamond's beauty, while halo or three-stone settings add a bit more sparkle and dimension. If you’re looking for something even more unique, consider a channel or bar setting, which nicely blends modern and vintage. Lastly, ensure the setting provides adequate protection for the diamond's corners since step cut diamonds tend to have those sharp corners prone to snagging.
Insure your diamond ring with Jewelers Mutual
Whether your diamond is an emerald cut, Asscher cut or not even a step-cut diamond at all, you should consider protecting your asset with a personal insurance policy from Jewelers Mutual. There are benefits to insuring your jewelry with a personal jewelry insurance policy and not insuring your jewelry under a homeowners insurance policy. Check your rate for a personal jewelry insurance policy using the button below.
