You’re not here for the ordinary. You want a rare diamond cut that’s as bold and unique as you are. While round and princess cuts certainly have their place, a whole world of rare diamond cuts is waiting to be explored. These lesser-known cuts may not be for everyone, but they’re perfect for those looking for a diamond that will stand out. Ready to discover some genuinely unique diamond cuts? Let’s go!
Marquise cut diamond
The Marquise diamond cut seems as good a place to start as any! Marquise cut diamonds are stunning, with their pointed north-to-south oval shape (think "football-shaped"). This dramatic, elongated cut can make shorter fingers look longer and offer an elegant aesthetic. Marquise diamonds were first favored by royalty in the Middle Ages, and despite being purchased less frequently than modern diamond cuts, they have been making a comeback in recent years. Some jewelers call this cut the 'navette-cut' (translates to "little boat" in French), highlighting its unique, canoe-shaped form.
Radiant cut diamond
Remember, rarity in this context refers to the diamond cut, not the diamond itself. While diamonds are not particularly rare since they are among the most abundant gemstones on the planet, finding a radiant cut diamond amidst the sea of beautifully cut diamonds is quite rare. Only about 2% of diamonds cut today are radiant cuts. Despite being one of the newest diamond cuts (first invented in 1977), radiant cuts have a timeless, classic appeal, similar to the cushion cut (see below). The radiant cut features a rectangular or square shape with cropped corners, blending the elegance of a step-cut with the brilliance of a brilliant cut. This cut offers a perfect balance of geometric shape and superb brilliance, thanks to its 70 facets. Its facet arrangement also gives radiant cuts the illusion of being larger than their actual carat weight.
Asscher cut diamond
Speaking of classic diamond cuts, Asscher cut diamonds exude pure elegance and class. Invented in 1902, the Asscher cut is a square variation of the popular emerald cut and features clipped corners. Also accounting for just 2% of diamonds cut worldwide today, Asscher cut diamonds’ intricate angles require the precise craftsmanship of a highly skilled professional. Since Asscher cuts aren’t good at hiding imperfections, high-quality stones are usually selected for this cut, which may result in a higher cost. Additionally, due to the clear view into the stone through an Asscher cut’s step-cut facets, it's recommended that the diamond have a color grade of at least I or higher, particularly as the carat weight reaches 1.5 carats or more. One of the most iconic celebrity Asscher cut diamonds of all time was given to Elizabeth Taylor by Richard Burton (the second time they were married!). The ring featured a 33-carat Asscher cut diamond (yes, you read that correctly, THIRTY-THREE carats!!), which was appropriately dubbed “the Taylor-Burton Diamond.”
Rose cut diamonds
Yes, this unique diamond shape is designed to resemble a closed rosebud. The rose cut has a distinct faceting, with its base being wide, flat and unfaceted, while the top is domed and covered in triangular facets. Introduced to Europe around 1530, the rose cut was a popular diamond cut in the 1800s. While it isn’t known for intense sparkle, the rose cut’s 24 facets offer a more subtle, understated beauty. With rose cuts, it’s less about modern flash and more about vintage charm and romance. Rose cut diamonds almost always look stunning but look particularly beautiful when paired with warmer metals like yellow or rose gold to keep with that warm, subtle aesthetic.
French cut diamonds
French cut diamonds date back to the early days of diamond cutting, evolving from the traditional table cut into a more refined, sophisticated design. While the table cut featured a flat top and uncut bottom, the French cut introduced angled facets on the stone's top (table) and bottom (pavilion). This addition created a more defined sparkle, with larger, geometric facets reflecting light in sharp, distinct flashes, creating a more structured and "blocky" light play compared to the table cut diamond’s softer, more uniform glow. This innovation marked a significant advancement in diamond cutting, giving the French cut a unique, angular appeal that became popular in the 16th century and later flourished during the Art Deco era (the 1920s-’30s).
Portrait cut diamonds
The portrait cut diamond, also known as a lasque, is one of the oldest diamond cuts, with origins in ancient India. The portrait cut diamond has a distinctive flat, wide middle section resembling a windowpane. The flat pane historically provided a clear view of miniature, hand-painted portraits placed underneath it. Today, they are generally clear-view diamonds, void of any artwork below it. Portrait cut diamonds are rare for several reasons. First, they are a highly specialized cut, making them difficult to find. Additionally, because this cut provides a clear view through the diamond, inclusions are easily visible, so experts recommend using high-quality diamonds (with few inclusions) for this cut, resulting in a more expensive gemstone.
Cushion cut diamond
The cushion cut diamond is a beloved choice for vintage jewelry lovers. With its square or rectangular shape and soft, rounded edges, it looks like a plush pillow. Cushion cut diamonds boast one of the highest dispersions (or fire) of any diamond shape. However, you should note that this cut tends to show more color than other shapes, so choosing a diamond with a color grade of H or higher is recommended.
Cushion cut diamonds are less common than other cuts, such as round brilliant and princess cuts, and certain variations, like elongated cushion cuts, are especially rare. Standard cushion cuts (a classic cut similar to the old mine cut) make up less than 1% of the cushion diamond supply. This cut is showcased by several celebrities, including Gabrielle Union, who wore an 8.5 carat, cushion cut engagement ring from Dwyane Wade in 2013, and Chrissy Teigen, who received a breathtaking cushion cut from John Legend in 2011. With huge popularity in the early 2000s, the cushion cut remains sought-after for its timeless beauty and dazzling brilliance.
The Old European cut diamond
Like the modern round brilliant cut, the Old European cut diamond was developed in Europe and popular from 1890 to 1930. While it doesn’t achieve the same level of sparkle as today’s round brilliant, the hand-cutting techniques of the time often resulted in slightly mis-sized facets or imperfections like bumps and bulges.
This vintage cut offers a distinct, hand-crafted character and a softer, warm light reflection perfect for those who find the intense sparkle of modern round brilliants too sharp. It’s ideal for someone seeking individuality and a ring that feels like it tells a unique story.
Insure your unique diamond cuts with Jewelers Mutual
From cushion to portrait and rose cut to radiant, whichever rare diamond cut you choose, consider protecting it with a personal jewelry insurance policy from Jewelers Mutual. It’s an affordable option that covers loss, damage and disappearance. You can check your rate online by clicking the button below.
