While you may have heard of filigree before, you may not be familiar with this delicate technique that transforms precious metals into lace-like works of art. Filigree is a 5,000-year-old technique that is both breathtaking and timeless, providing an ethereal quality to jewelry.
Filigree jewelry refers to artistic metalwork created by soldering plain or twisted wires of gold or silver into elaborate designs. The lace-like pattern, achieved by creating metalwork and spaces, produces a lighter-weight jewelry piece because it often requires fewer raw materials. Derived from the Latin words filum (wire) and granum (grain or bead), the welded wire metalwork is often applied onto a surface or incorporated within a thicker outer skeleton of an object. It can also stand alone, creating intricate openwork patterns with no background. While still produced today, filigree design work is often found in antique and heirloom jewelry pieces.
7 types and styles of filigree
Filigree comes in several different styles, achieved through various techniques. Here are some of the most popular:
Openwork filigree
This type of filigree creates intricate, lace-like patterns where the design itself provides structural support. It's delicate and often appears weightless.
Metal-supported filigree
This design is attached to a solid metal base, providing strength and stability. This type allows for the construction of larger, more complex pieces.
Combined openwork and metal-supported filigree
This technique blends the previous two, using openwork sections for visual appeal and metal support for structural integrity.
Filigree with additional elements
Just when you think filigree jewelry can’t get any more detailed and dazzling, it does! This technique incorporates other decorative elements, such as gemstones, pearls or enameling, into the filigree design.
Scrollwork
Characterized by thicker flowing, curving lines that resemble scrolls or vines, scrollwork filigree jewelry creates a sense of movement and elegance.
Celtic filigree
Celtic filigree often incorporates intricate knotwork and interlacing patterns (like the endless knot) inspired by Celtic art, creating a unique and symbolic aesthetic.
Floral filigree
As the name suggests, floral filigree features delicate designs inspired by flowers, leaves and vines, creating a romantic and nature-inspired look.
Due to their similarities, certain intricate jewelry designs, such as filigree, milgrain and engraving, tend to get confused. Let’s clear up any confusion: Filigree, as already mentioned, is a decorative technique that involves creating intricate patterns from thin, twisted, curled and soldered metal wires, often gold or silver, creating a lace-like design. Milgrain, on the other hand, is a decorative technique that involves embedding tiny beads or dots along the edges of gemstones or metalwork, adding delicate, ornate detail to the jewelry piece. Lastly, engraving is the process of cutting or carving designs into the surface of a material, such as metal, wood or glass, which may be used to add designs, initials, dates or short messages to jewelry.
The history of filigree jewelry
The technique originated with the ancient Greeks, who used it to reflect elegance. Filigree was also widely used during the Roman Empire, while Asian filigree—known for its exceptionally fine wirework—first became popular in India. Worn primarily by wealthy women, filigree jewelry was often seen as a status symbol used to celebrate gods and believed to ward off evil spirits. More lavish filigree designs, typically featuring colorful gemstones like green garnets, amethysts, peridots and emeralds, elevated filigree jewelry in the early 1900s, led by King Edward and Queen Alexandra.
Following World War I, new filigree designs, including geometric shapes, found their way into brooches, cocktail rings and more. Around this time, die-cast machines began replacing the laborious task of creating filigree by hand. While these advancements helped increase production and affordability, they also diminished the delicate jewelry’s sense of being handcrafted. Yet, whether these types of jewelry are handcrafted or machine-produced, they still have a sense of appeal even today.
How is filigree made?
Delicate and complex, filigree design is not an expertise one acquires overnight. It is a complex procedure that requires expert craftsmanship. Still produced today in many countries like Portugal, Italy, Malta, Peru, China and India, many filigree designs are handcrafted and require intricate metalworking techniques. Machine-produced filigree began in the early 20th century, triggering mass production and increased popularity. Generally speaking, the filigree-making process looks something like this:
- Precious metal is stretched until it becomes a fine thread. The thread’s thickness can vary, with some being as thin as a hair.
- The metal thread is heated, making it more workable.
- The softened thread is shaped into a pattern.
- When the design has been fully created, solder is used to bond the threads together, solidifying the design.
- Lastly, the finished design is soldered to a piece of jewelry.
Tips for choosing filigree jewelry
With so many filigree styles and designs available, use the following tips to determine which is best for you:
First, consider the metal type and color. Determine which metal best suits your desired filigree look. Yellow and rose gold filigree provide a warm, vintage look, while platinum and white gold filigree provide a more contemporary appearance.
- Consider gemstones (or other embellishments). With its intricate, elaborate details, filigree can make a piece of jewelry look busy (usually in a good way!). Be sure any added gemstones or embellishments complement the piece, not overwhelm it. A large gemstone may distract from the filigree’s beauty, while several small accent diamonds may highlight it. Filigree detail can mix nicely with a bold gemstone like the ones found in a large cocktail ring. Just be sure to maintain the balance.
- Consider where you’ll wear it. Filigree is made of metal, but don’t be fooled: it’s delicate. The intricate details make filigree pieces prime candidates for snags (such as on fabrics) that can damage the piece. If you use your hands often, you should avoid wearing filigree jewelry while you work or consider selecting pieces that won’t snag as easily, such as necklaces or earrings. Or, try a simpler filigree design with fewer points and spirals to catch on fabrics.
- For engagement ring filigree, consider your future wedding bands. If you’re choosing an engagement ring, think about how the filigree will work with a future wedding band. If both wedding rings contain filigree, you might want to pair it with a more subtle design on your engagement ring (or vice versa) to avoid competing with or overpowering the delicate design.
How to clean filigree jewelry
Because of its thin, delicate designs, fragile filigree jewelry must be carefully handled and cleaned. Use the following steps to keep your filigree jewelry in good shape.
- Gently wipe with a soft cloth, using a soft brush (like a paintbrush) to reach cracks and crevices.
- Soak the jewelry in a solution of lukewarm water and a few drops of mild dish soap. Salt can be added for better results.
- Soak the jewelry for 15-20 minutes. If the piece contains black oxidation, boil the solution for 5-10 minutes.
- Rinse with lukewarm water and analyze the piece to ensure thorough cleaning. If the piece's luster has not been restored, soak and rinse again.
- Pat dry with a paper towel or soft cotton cloth.
Insure your filigree jewelry with Jewelers Mutual
Filigree is a beautiful yet delicate jewelry technique that has been loved for thousands of years. You can protect your filigree jewelry with a personal insurance policy from Jewelers Mutual. Obtaining personal jewelry insurance through Jewelers Mutual is affordable and covers loss, damage and disappearances. You can check your rate by clicking the button below.
