Most people have seen rose gold in their lifetime, and maybe have even heard it referred to as Millennial Pink gold. In 2018, Pew Research applied the name "Millenials" to describe the generation born between 1981 - 1996. This just happened to coincide with when this shade of pink was available on most commercial products and thus became synonymous with the generation. Rose gold is the name for the burnished, warm, metallic pink trend that’s taken over pretty much everything the past few years, as you might have noticed. Rose gold can be found everywhere now, from smartphone cases to luggage designs, water bottles and more, but especially in jewelry.
But if you’re wondering exactly what rose gold is and particularly rose gold jewelry, you’re not alone. Rose gold is a tricky topic to unpack because in truth, rose gold is a man-made material and doesn’t exist in nature. Neither does white gold actually! So, to understand what rose gold really is, we have to look at the history of gold and how it’s used in jewelry.
Lessons in gold chemistry
According to the National Mining Association, gold has been used as far back as 4000 BC by humans in decorative objects, and most notably, in jewelry. Pure, 24-karat, yellow gold is one of the most valuable substances found on earth.
But pure, unaltered 24-karat gold is also one of the most malleable substances on earth. You know those old cartoons where a gold prospector bites down on a gold nugget to see if it’s real? They do that because a piece of pure gold is soft enough for your teeth to leave an indentation on it if you bite it.
Since 24-karat gold is too soft to set anything in it or to wear daily, it must be alloyed with something else. This is why you’ll see pieces of jewelry marketed as 18-karat gold, 14-karat gold, or even as low as 10- and 8-karat gold.
If you’re following the logic so far, this means that the different karats of gold are denoted by how much of another metal it’s alloyed with. Something billed as 18-karat gold is made of 75% gold and 25% alloy; 14-karat gold is about 60% gold and 40% alloy. The lower the karat weight, the less gold is in the piece, which is why you see the dramatic price differences between the different karat weights.
The different alloys used also informs the final color of the gold. Gold in its pure, unaltered form is yellow. White gold, rose gold and even black gold are created by using different alloys like nickel, cadmium, palladium or copper to alter its physical appearance.
So, let’s get into what your next logical question would be: is rose gold real?
Is rose gold real gold?
Yes, rose gold is real gold, and you can perform some simple at-home tests if you suspect you’ve got fake gold. Just remember that rose gold is made from yellow, 24-karat gold that’s been alloyed with something else. That something else is copper and is what gives rose gold its pink appearance.
Rose gold can be either 14-karat or 18-karat gold, but most rose gold jewelry is made in 14-karat gold. This is because 18-karat rose gold has more yellow natural gold in it, which makes it look brassier colored (i.e., not so rosy). When most people think of rose gold, they’re thinking of that soft, burnished look, and this is best achieved with 14-karat gold.
Rose gold vs. yellow gold vs. white gold vs. platinum
Now that you understand how rose gold is made, it should be easy to understand the difference between the various metals.
Yellow gold: As mentioned, pure, natural 24-karat gold is yellow and typically alloyed with something else to make more durable jewelry, and those alloys are typically silver and copper. That’s why 18-karat yellow gold will have a darker, richer color than 14-karat yellow gold, which will have a lighter color. This is because there’s less yellow gold content in the mixture and it affects the look, the same way rose gold is impacted.
White gold: White gold is made from a mixture of yellow gold and white metal alloys like silver and cadmium. The main difference between white gold jewelry and yellow gold jewelry (besides their color), is that white gold jewelry is typically plated with a substance called rhodium. Rhodium is a very rare, bright white metal that’s plated on top of white gold jewelry to give it that dazzling, shiny look. But if you’ve ever owned white gold jewelry before, you might have noticed over time that it may look dull and discolored in places. This is because the rhodium plating naturally wears off, and will do so at an accelerated rate if you don’t properly care for your gold jewelry.
Rose gold: Rose gold, as previously discussed, is made from a mixture of yellow gold and copper. The more copper in the metal mixture, the brassier the appearance of the ring. Though you don’t have to plate rose gold rings with rhodium, plating is done for pieces of jewelry with a two-tone design (pieces that are both white gold and rose gold in appearance). The reason it's plated is because it’s extremely cost prohibitive to cast different parts of the jewelry in different types of metal. Additionally, the finished product rarely looks as seamless as it would have had a jeweler just plated it.
Platinum: Unlike white gold, platinum is a pure white metal that doesn’t need to be alloyed with another element for its white appearance. Platinum is also strong enough on its own to set gemstones and withstand daily wear. However, platinum is a heavier metal and typically costs more than white gold, which is why prices for platinum jewelry are more expensive than their gold counterparts.
Does rose gold tarnish?
Rose gold won’t tarnish, but if the jewelry is in contact with your skin day in and day out and is not serviced or properly cleaned, it will take on a darker appearance. Be sure you regularly service and clean your rose gold jewelry to make sure it’s just as dazzling as the day you got it.
Style tips for rose gold jewelry
Jewelry is a personal expression of your unique style, but here are some of the most popular ways to wear and style rose gold jewelry.
Pair with neutral colors: It may seem counterintuitive, but rose gold pairs well with neutral, nude colors. The burnished pink glow of rose gold is really highlighted when worn against one of these shades.
Mix and match metals: Rose gold looks exceptionally good next to a complementary white gold or yellow gold piece. Layer different colored metals via alternating stacking bands or layer a rose gold necklace or bracelet with different metal colors for a sharp, edgy contrast.
Use pink stones: Pink on pink on pink! While diamonds look great when set in rose gold, gemstones like morganite and pink sapphires really pop because the rose gold metal pulls the pink hues out of the gemstones.
One final, insider tip about rose gold jewelry: if you’re shopping for a diamond engagement ring, a rose gold setting will allow you to work with a slightly yellower diamond and could save you some money. Rose gold can better camoflauge the color of a yellower stone, whereas a white gold or platinum setting will draw attention to it due to the stark contrast.
But before you purchase anything in rose gold, be sure that's the color of metal for you. Rose gold jewelry may be popular and trendy, but it’s not for everyone. If possible, try before you buy by visiting a jewelry store in person to see how it looks to decide if you like it or not.
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